The Ultimate Guide to Installing Baseboards Like a Pro (Step-by-Step Tutorial)
Installing baseboards might seem intimidating — but with the right tools, tips, and know-how, you can get professional-looking results even if you're a complete beginner. In this detailed guide, we’ll walk you through everything you need to know: from choosing the right baseboards to cutting perfect corners, handling tricky walls, and finishing like a pro.
Whether you're renovating a bathroom or updating trim throughout your home, this tutorial will teach you how to install baseboards correctly the first time. And if you're more of a visual learner, watch the full video tutorial here for clear step-by-step demonstrations.
Why Install Baseboards?
Baseboards serve both functional and decorative purposes:
They cover gaps between the wall and flooring
They protect walls from bumps and scuffs
And they enhance the finished look of a room
Baseboards are usually installed after flooring to provide a seamless transition between the floor and wall.
Step 1: Choose the Right Baseboard
Before grabbing tools or heading to the store, it’s important to decide what kind of baseboard is right for your space.
✔️ Height
Match baseboard height to your ceiling height:
Under 8 ft ceilings: 3.25" to 5"
9 ft ceilings: 5" to 7"
10+ ft ceilings: 7" or taller
💡 Pro Tip: Taller baseboards add elegance to larger spaces, while simpler profiles suit modern or minimal designs.
✔️ Thickness
Standard thickness ranges from 3/8" to 5/8". If your baseboard is thicker than your door casing, we’ll show you how to fix that later for a seamless look.
✔️ Material
Three common materials to choose from:
MDF: Cost-effective and paint-ready, but prone to damage from moisture
Finger-jointed Pine: A budget-friendly real wood option, usually pre-primed
Solid Wood: Durable and beautiful, but pricier and requires more prep
✔️ Style
Pick a profile that matches your home:
Modern styles are sleek but typically have more edges which show dust easily
Colonial profiles hide dust better and suit traditional homes
One-Step profiles hide dust better and suit traditional homes that want a bit of a more modern touch
Make sure to coordinate with existing or future door casings
💡 Pro Tip: If this is only phase 1 of your renovation journey, Make sure to consider what design you want your house to grow into when picking a style. It’s better to avoid the need to redo baseboard once you renovate other parts of the house.
Step 2: Gather Tools & Materials
Recommended tools:
Miter saw (or miter box + handsaw)
18-gauge finish nailer w/ nails (or glue, hammer & finish nails)
Tape measure, pencil & paper
Caulking gun with paintable caulk
PPE: safety glasses & dust mask
Optional but recommened:
Instant bond glue & activator (CA Glue)
Angle finder (for imperfect corners)
Nail punch
DryDex spackling or wood filler
✅ Buy 5–10% more baseboard than you measured for waste and mistakes.
Step 3: Measure & Plan the Room
Draw a quick floor plan of your room. Mark measurements from door casing to corners and label each wall. This saves time and helps avoid cutting errors later. If you’re not comfortable yet with installing baseboard, it’s best to do one wall at a time but once you’re more comfortable feel free to do one room at a time.
Step 4: Make Perfect Cuts
🔨 Inside Corners
Always trim the factory edge to ensure a clean, square start.
Set your miter saw to 45° toward the wall you measured from.
With the back side facing up, measure, mark and make your cut splitting you marked line in half.
Use your sketch and label cuts clearly to avoid confusion.
🔨 Outside Corners
Same as above, but set the saw 45° away from the wall you measured.
Outside corners will form an angled edge that wraps the corner.
🔨 Imperfect Corners
Not all corners are 90°! Use an angle finder, divide that number by 2, and set your miter saw to that angle. Label these spots on your sketch for reference. It’s best to cut both pieces for this corner before changing your saws angle.
🔨 Flat Joints (Splicing Long Walls)
When joining two boards on a long wall:
Cut one board at a 45° inside angle
Cut the other to overlap as an outside corner
This creates a hidden seam that disappears after spackling
Step 5: Address Tricky Details
Measuring from Outside Corners
If there's no edge to hook your tape on:
Measure from the outside edge of the baseboard (on the finished facing side)
Add the thickness of the board (e.g., 5/8")
Mark and transfer the measurement to the back of your board
Adjusting Baseboard That Sticks Past Door Casing
If your baseboard is thicker than your casing:
Dry-fit the piece and mark along the side of the baseboard which is sticking out
Use your saw to trim the front side at a shallow 45° angle facing towards the door casing side
Proceed making small cuts until you get to your marked line, but without cutting the line off
This creates a smooth transition that feels intentional
Step 6: Install Baseboards
Dry-Fit First
Check that your cuts fit cleanly before nailing.
Nail Placement
Place the first nail at the end opposite to your next cut
Measure and prep the next piece
Nail both boards at the joint, then secure every 12–16" along the length
Avoid pipes: use glue instead of nails near plumbing! This means both sides of the wall where plumbing is being ran.
🧠 Pro Tip: Mark plumbing zones with painter’s tape before nailing. Learn from my mistake (yup, I hit a pipe once).
For Uneven Walls
Use wood shims or cardboard to fill low spots behind the baseboard for a supported finish.
Step 7: Finishing Touches
Fill Nail Holes
Use a nail punch to sink nails, then apply DryDex spackling over the holes. Once dry, lightly sand for a seamless look.
Caulking
Use paintable caulk for gaps at the top of the baseboard and joints
Cut the nozzle at a 45° angle for better control
Use a damp rag to smooth the bead
For large gaps, do a two-pass caulk: first to fill, second to finish
❌ Never use caulk to fill the gap between baseboard and floor — use shoe moulding instead.
Bonus Pro Tips
Instant glue + activator is great for tight outside corner joints — it sets fast and stays strong.
Smaller corner pieces are easier to glue accurately.
Satin or semi-gloss paint sheens are best for baseboards due to durability and cleanability.
Wrapping Up
With the right techniques, baseboard installation doesn’t have to be difficult — and it can completely transform your space. This guide covered everything from planning and cutting to installation and finishing.
👉 Want to see it all in action?
Watch my full step-by-step video: The Ultimate Guide on How To Install Baseboards Like a PRO!
I share real-time tips, common mistakes, and visuals to help make this process even easier.
Got a tricky corner or unique situation in your project? Drop a comment on the video or reach out — I’m happy to help.
And if you liked this, check out my DIY Tire Table Build for another fun and practical home project.
